Early Summer Tomato Jam

We’ve been exceedingly blessed with weather in the Bay Area this year. A mild winter transitioned gracefully into an early spring with sunny days arriving mid-April with seemingly no end in sight. We can’t help but relish these sun-drenched days by spending the entire afternoon outside, soaking up the Vitamin D, sipping on cold white wine and doing very little else. I chalk it up to our Southern California roots but when the sun is out, so are we. As a result of this wonderful stroke of good weather, we’ve managed to get little else done lately…one of those ‘good problems’ to be sure.

That said though, I quietly delighted waking up to a drizzly overcast Sunday yesterday. DH was away for the weekend so I cycled down to the DMV Farmer’s Market, spent a ridiculous sum on waaaaay too much produce and spent the entire day cooking in the kitchen.

On the day’s agenda:

-fresh whipped butter with chopped radish

-fresh ricotta with lemon

-gremolata

and last but certainly not least…

-early summer tomato jam

The original intent for the tomato jam was to enter it in Pizzaiolo’s Jam/Pie Contest for this Sunday’s fundraiser but it’s come to my attention that the fundraiser was cancelled due to lack of ticket sales. Bummer.

This was my first attempt at tomato jam. I wanted to make a more savory jam, ideally with less sugar. Full disclosure, I’ve been attempting to avoid all refined sugar as of late. But sure enough, tomato jam calls for a good amount of sugar to bring the fruit together, arguably more than other summer fruits with higher natural sugar content such as berries or stone fruit. C’est la vie. On with the recipe…

Chop tomatoes and a white onion. Add sugar (some recipes call for as much as a 1lb::1cup ratio but I lessened the sugar ratio to 5lb::3cups). Add spices (cumin, coriander, caraway & cayenne were my choice). Add lemon juice or vinegar. I chose sherry vinegar but balsamic might have been nice with more Mediterranean spices. 

Combine all ingredients in a large, heavy bottomed pot and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly. Keep mixture at a boil for a minute or so, then reduce heat to a simmer and stir occasionally. 

Cooking time from this point on will depend entirely on the juiciness of the tomatoes. Mine were rather juicy so the cooking time was close to 4 hours. Once the mixture reached jam-like consistency, remove from heat and let cool slightly. Then transfer mixture into canning jars and turn upside down to cool. For long-term storage, stabilize cans in a hot water bath for 15 minutes.

Maybe its from not eating sugar for a full week or maybe it’s just that I expected it to be more savory but the jam tasted too sweet for my taste. DH loved it, especially on toasts with the fresh ricotta. Paired with a Bloomsdale spinach salad with fresh onions, pickled radish, pecans & gremolata, the tomato jam made a nice addition to an easy dinner.

Giant Green Pie & Kitchen Navigations

Navigating the perimeters of a domestic space can be tricky at times. Sharing a bathroom, a bedroom and a kitchen with another person requires a fair bit of negotiation & compromise. No doubt.
For our entire relationship, DH and I have enjoyed cooking together with near bliss most days. That said though, there are times cooking together feels more like a cold war than a creative hot spot.
This was the case when we attempted to cook from a recent NYTimes recipe for Torta Pasquina, or giant green pie.

Most often the disconnect is a matter of taste. DH has a taste for adornment while I lean toward more plain, austere flavors & textures. He'd be happiest with a dish made of a million ingredients and I'd be most content with less than five. Also, to be fair, I am a wee bit bossy in the kitchen. It's taken me a long time to come to terms with this but alas, it's true. "You see this kitchen as Emily's kitchen and everything in it as belonging to you", DH accused on this cooking occasion. I confessed, reluctantly, "Well, yes, I suppose that is true.". But I wondered then (and continue to wonder quietly now), what is really so wrong with that?

Anyhow, onto the recipe...
We chose to make this pie because it met the three requirements that matter most lately:
-quick
-healthy
-inexpensive ingredients

DH made the dough while I cooked the greens & onions. 
After mixing the ricotta into the green mixture, spread it over the bottom layer of dough.

Crack eggs onto the greens mixture...

...and cover the pie with two layers of paper thin dough.

Lastly, fold over the pie edges to envelop mixture (certainly could have been more artful than we achieved), coat with an egg wash and slice steam vents in the top. Cook at 375* for 40-50 minutes, depending on the oven.

Serve warm to a loving, grateful sister-in-law!

The one edit I would make to this recipe is to use store bought pie crust or phyllo dough instead of making it ourselves. This would have made an already easy recipe that much easier and arguably better tasting.

Here's to working out those learning curves and speed bumps in the pursuit of domestic bliss!

How to have a near perfect day

Ingredients:

-One perfect, sunny day in the Bay
-One free, open day with no agenda
-Two* bicycles
-Two* adventurous spirits
*= can be multiplied exponentially in equal ratios of bicycles to adventurous spirits. Adventurousness is essential.

Instructions:

-Mix well to combine all ingredients
-Ride bicycles to Chrissy Field with sandwiches and a (surprise!) bottle of Anthill Farms Pinot in tow.
-Cycle halfway across the Golden Gate Bridge and decide on a whim to go all the way into the town of Sausalito
-Grab a quick refresher beer at Bar Bocce
-Catch the last ferry back to the Ferry Building**
-Repeat as often as humanly possible!

**=Full Moon is an added bonus

Quick Camp Trip to Santa Cruz

DH and I had been hankering to go camping for quite some time so when this past weekend presented no obligations or invitations, we jumped on the opportunity.

Santa Cruz is arguably the easiest area from the Oakland area for an impromptu camping trip so to be somewhat adventurous, we opted to give Big Basin State Park & Campgrounds in Boulder Creek a shot. 

Big Basin is a gorgeous, redwood-riddled park and the town of Boulder Creek is an adorable town in the mountains just NE of Santa Cruz. Boulder Creek is particularly nostalgic to DH as he spent several summers working at Camp Harmon, an Easter Seals camp for the developmentally and physically handicapped.

DH, dwarfed by the redwoods

The one problem with Big Basin SP is that it is capital C-O-L-D COLD in February. That the weather would be cold camping in Northern California in Winter was a given, but there was no preparing us for how cold it actually was. It was 39 degrees when we arrived just after dark and only got colder from there. For all intents and purposes, it was freezing. And we were miserable.

The next morning, we made the executive decision to move camp. 

After cooking up some Nepenthe pancakes and New Orleans style chicory coffee, we packed the car and headed to New Brighton State Beach & Campgrounds just outside of Santa Cruz. We'd camped there once before and couldn't have been happier to return to bright sunshine and warmer conditions.

After setting up camp, we headed straight for the beach, mere footsteps away, to read and soak up the sun. From there, we headed into town to check out Soif, a wine bar and shop friends had raved about. In fact, Soif's wine list (and pricing) was remarkable. 

We picked up some fresh fish & spinach and headed back to start dinner. After recently preparing Jerusalem's risotto style barley, it struck me as the perfect camping recipe. 

Simply sautee celery & shallots in butter & oil, mix in pearl barley, bay leaf & smoked paprika until coated then add passata, chopped tomato & veggie broth and bring to a boil. Bring the heat down to a simmer, cover the pot and within a half hour, you'll have a delicious barley risotto. While the barley is cooking, dry toast caraway seeds in a pan then mix with feta cheese to top the barley. The feta-caraway adds a lot to this dish.

For the fish, sautee finely sliced lemon & garlic confit (with oil), add in the cod and a bit of white wine e voila!, fish is complete.

Lastly, make a quick lemony-shallot vinaigrette for the spinach and throw cara cara oranges & marcona almonds into the mix for a near perfect salad.

The next morning we opted to explore downtown Santa Cruz in lieu of a lingering breakfast at the campground. After cappucino's at the always outstanding Verve Coffee Roasters and sandwiches at Zuccoli's, we happened upon Well Within, a day spa featuring private rooms with a soaking tub, cedar sauna, shower and lounge space for the same price as a campsite. On a whim, we booked the room for one hour. It was arguably the best hour of the weekend. There is nothing quite like a hot shower after camping for a few days; unless of course you add a hot tub and sauna to the mix, then it's pure bliss!

Cooking Jerusalem #2; The Dinner Party

Whenever friends come to visit, we eat out. There have been a few exceptions to this but it is rare. So in an overall effort to eat in more, I opted to cook a meal for friends in town this time around. And what better menu to feature than one hand plucked from my new favorite cookbook, Jerusalem.

It was a Sunday so we took advantage of the Oakland DMV Farmer's Market and stocked up on produce.

Sunday is a great day to buy produce and the second worst day to buy fish (Mondays being #1). Luckily though, Whole Foods had whole mackerel that had been caught the day before. Not ideal but it would have to suffice. More about that later...

To start, I made the butternut squash & tahini spread and sliced Acme's dark Jewish Rye to go with. Ottolenghi suggests drizzling date syrup & sesame seeds over the spread but I opted for molasses as it's a little deeper in flavor (annnd I didn't have a clue where to procure date syrup in time!).

Next came the Mejadra, the one dish both Ottolenghi & Tamimi agree is the most comforting dish of the entire cookbook. After having eaten Mejadra, I'd have to agree emphatically. Not only is this dish ingeniously simple...'why hadn't I ever thought to combine lentils and rice!?', but it is also healthy and deep in flavorful spices (coriander, cumin & turmeric to name a few). This trifecta of simple, healthy & flavorful is further improved by topping it with crispy fried onions. A scoop of labneh mixed in with the mejadra sends this dish over the top!

Mackerel is a polarizing fish. Because it is a 'fishy' fish and somewhat oily, people either hate it or can't get enough of it. Marinating it in harissa and serving with a Moroccan-inspired orange, olive & golden beet salad luckily left everyone wanting more mackerel! The acid of the salsa cuts the fattiness of the fish perfectly.

While the deserts in Jerusalem are nothing short of persuasive, it being January DH insisted we prepare his favorite dessert, the winter citrus tart from another favorite cookbook, the Big Sur Bakery cookbook.

It would be a tragedy not to take advantage of the citrus bounty this time of year and this winter citrus tart celebrates the season's most plentiful fruit. Paired with almond cream, the  citrus in the crust, the marmalade and the fruit slices sings. One of these days, I will make this tart for brunch as it goes perfectly with coffee the next morning. 

***

Jerusalem, the dinner party ought to be a regular occurrence!

Cooking Jerusalem #1; the condiments

I've never been big on resolutions. That said though, the new year is as good a time as any to try something new. And what better to start the new year than with a new(ish) cookbook. 

Jerusalem is the 3rd cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi, the much lauded Israel-by-way-of-London chef and Sami Tamimi. 'Jerusalem: The Cookbook' reads more like a cultural history book and is a beautiful marriage of the Eastern Palestine influences of Tamimi youth with Western Jewish traditions of Ottolenghi's upbringing.

Every photo is more enticing than the next, it is hard to know where to begin. I opted to start at the end...with the condiments.

With any cookbook that aims to tackle a whole cuisine, particularly one I'm not so familiar with, it seems best to fill the pantry and/or refrigerator with the spices, sauces and condiments that will be used throughout the book.

ZHOUG.

This recipe is described as the Middle Eastern gremolata. Since gremolata is God's nectar IMHO, there was no question I would make this first. A combination of cilantro, parsley & hot green chiles (jalapenos or an equally hot pepper) with cumin, cardamom, & cloves; the depth of flavor in Zhoug is incredible and goes great on labne, folded into eggs or simply on a spoon!  

LABNEH.

Granted, I haven't tackled every recipe, but this has to be the easiest one in the book. Labneh is strained yogurt, essentially. Simply select the yogurt you wish to use (they recommend equal parts goat milk & cow milk yogurt), line a bowl with cheesecloth, pour yogurt onto the cloth and tie it off to strain out the excess liquid. Within 24 hours you'll have delicious labneh, a wonderful addition to meat & rice dishes or great on its own with harrisa and zhoug.

HARISSA.

Harissa can be transcendent. The harissa recipe is not. It is fine and works quite well as a marinade for fish but I prefer a more liquid consistency when it comes to harissa.  

QUICK PICKLED LEMONS.

There is a recipe for preserved lemons, which take a month or so set and then there is a recipe for quick pickled lemons, which take a day to set. I opted for the latter recipe and while I've yet to make the former, the quick pickled lemons are quite nice. Pickled or preserved lemons are a great addition to just about every dish, particularly meats, fishes and grains.

...can't wait to cook up more recipes from this beautiful book!